The shining star of Margaret River

26/Jan/2010

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Swanbourne Cellars store manager Tony Gangemi and Ferngrove national sales manager Rick Berwick. Swanbourne Cellars store manager Tony Gangemi and Ferngrove national sales manager Rick Berwick.

MARGARET River wine-makers were the first in Australia to develop the lively, zesty and easy drinking semillon-sauvignon blanc blend.

Without the significant expense of oak barrels, complex winemaking technology and the need for long-ageing periods before release, this style is regarded as the region’s cashflow crop because (a) it is relatively inexpensive to make and |(b) the wineries can begin to get a financial return within six months of the harvest.

WA semillon sauvignons have proved as popular on the east coast as they are here.

They are the only Australian growth sector in the white wine market and many South Australian and New South Wales wineries have jumped on the bandwagon.

But in James Halliday’s latest The Australian Wine Companion 2010 20 of the 25 highest pointed SSBs are from here in the west. WA also dominated the national show circuit’s results in 2010.

There are three major styles: the cheaper young, fresh, vibrant and zesty and unwooded examples (that may have a touch of sweetness) and the longer, leaner, drier and wonderfully savoury and complex, serious and more expensive style.

The Ferngrove Symbols SBS 2009

Then there are the (ever more lightly) oaked and more complex releases that have increased in popularity since their first real commercial presence in the late ’90s, and especially so since the middle of the decade.

In the past, Ferngrove Symbols Sauvignon Blanc Semillon was drunk within 12 months of release and, if not, the wines quickly became developed and broad – and even tired.

With today’s winemaking technology, this Frankland River wine, as with nearly all of its peers, is only just starting to reach its best and will remain there for another 18 months.

This is not a shrinking violet. It is big, pleasing and obvious and has all the SSB aromatics that you could want.

It remains youthfully crisp – and is just a lovely mouthful of reasonably priced summer flavours.

17.8 points RRP $14.95 – but often on special at below $12.


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